SECOND TAKE
Isn’t this place familiar? Ah yes, Vivo even sounds like its smaller sibling.

Fans of Tivo will be pleased to find a new offering by that eatery's founder David Yeo (also of renowned group Aqua), slap bang in the middle of party land Soho, as Vivo opens its doors on Elgin. Similar in name and similar in principle, Vivo, like its sister on the hill in Wyndham Street, is home to sleek glamorous sur rounds and a menu heavy in European influences.

This is the place for Roman-style pizza, those of the crisp flat base topped with traditionals like Portobello mushrooms and truffle pesto or innovative twists such as duck confit with arugula. Baked black cod and a superb roast lamb loin with eggplant puree share the limelight, but most agreed a standout on the evening menu was another Italian stalwart, risotto. Characteristic of the clean healthy-feeling dishes that Vivo turns out, the rice dish was well-balanced and light.

Beverly Wood is the restaurant's main claim to fame. She co-owned and ran the floor at Sydney's award-winning Ristorante Riva and was called a "phenomenon somebody should bottle" in Australian Gourmet Traveller. The bright, friendly Wood is aiming for an intimate neighbourhood feel, with warm, personable service—an area that often goes forgotten in Hong Kong's food joints. She might have a good chance of succeeding. Tivo suffered a little late at night with a heavy throng at the bar, making it hard for wait staff to fight through to the tables. With almost 2,000 sq ft to play with, Vivo offers more breathing space.

Patrons are welcomed till late into the night. There are close to 100 bottles of wine to go with dinner, or you can get a party going with a signature cocktail. The Dragon Fire, with fresh strawberry, dragon fruit and Absolut gives refreshing kick. The dark subdued décor with twinkling lanterns is just as comforting the morning after. Enjoy a New York Greenwich Village vibe and nurse a hangover with some light scrambled eggs and toast, even if it comes with a sense of déjà vu.

WAGYU—STILL HIGH STEAKS?

Wagyu is most likely to be the name on the bona fide carnivore's lips when asked which variety is sultan of steak. Revered for its melt-in-your-mouth marbling, there's little as succulent, tender… or decadent, for that matter. Though its price remains exclusive, Wagyu makes an appearance at every steakhouse worth its salt. So have we reached our saturation point and are we ready for the next big thing in beef?

According to Chef Tin Ka-ming f rom The Steakhouse winebar and grill at the InterContinental Hong Kong, not anytime soon. "Hong Kong consumers believe that Japanese Wagyu is the top beef available in town because of its tenderness. Recently we have been getting ours from Saga, a city in southern Japan, which we feel is the most superior," he divulges.

The selection of Wagyu on the menu ranges from Japanese specialty Saga A5 filet mignon and strip loin to Australian strip loin grade 8 and rib-eye grade 9, all 450-day grain fed. "We believe Wagyu will retain its status as the 'star beef' because of its special taste and texture, and will become more popular," adds Chef Tin. Even so, he recommends eating a sinful slab in moderation—a maximum serving of six to eight ounces.

Sharon Lai, Angliss' purchasing manager for chilled and high value meat, agrees that Wagyu is here to stay. The return of the Japanese variety means that full blood products of the top grade A5 quality are being supplied, as well as its Australian purebred counterparts of the top M12 standard. "In terms of quality, flavour and tenderness, Wagyu is the best beef in town," she asserts.

Al though most ly served in Japanese and Western styles, Lai has noticed that Wagyu has become increasingly present in Chinese cuisine. She argues that contrary to popular belief, the high marbling in Wagyu beef doesn't present a health risk as monounsaturated fat is better for the heart and conjugated linoleic acid possesses anti-carcinogenic proper ties, as well as being an anti-inflammatory agent.

Chef Siriluck Lekkwan from JJ's Thai & Grill believes that for those watching their waistlines, the M9 grade is the ideal balance between fat and meat, although the health conscious should select a lower grade for less marbling. She contends that Cantonese cuisine may be a more innovative means of showcasing Wagyu.

Ultimately though, Chef Lekkwan believes the elite of red meat to be in the eye of the diner. While aware that Wagyu has been well received in Hong Kong as locals tend to be big into bovine, she says, "You cannot say which beef is best. It depends on individual preference as to the meat's fat and texture, as some prefer more while others do not."

The beef ban a few years ago may have been responsible for creating this insatiable appetite for what was once unattainable, yet Wagyu still shows no signs of going anywhere. Whether a foodie fad or an enduring obsession, there's nothing new on the horizon likely to usurp its crown just yet.